Quilatoa loop/circuit is a popular "eco" destination in ecuador due to lovely scenery and rural feel. Since we couldn't camp (no tent, stove etc) we decided to hike through the (isolated) center of the loops, while staying in hostels around the outside at nights. It was a bit of a logistical challenge, but absolutely worth it for the scenery and people we met, and the fact we didn't see another gringo the whole hike.
Day 1 started horribly after our worst overnight bus trip yet. We then caught another 3.5hr bus to Sigchos, at which time it started pouring. We were waiting for the (one daily) bus to Isinlivi, where our hike begins, for two hours before a guy very convincingly told us we missed it. He then flagged down a truck going to Isinlivi, and we hopped in the (uncovered) back, in the downpour. Not fun. Oh and then we stopped to help change a ladies tire (while the bus that we actually hadn't missed pulled past). We were miserably wet and filthy from the mud road.
Sounds like fun, eh?
No seriously, it got great then. We arrived soaking and grumpy in Isinlivi, a town of 40 families, to an eco-hostel which we had to ourselves (well, we shared with a crazy cat, lovely dog, pig and llama). We started a roaring fire and dried ourselves out. The lady prepared the most AMAZING dinner and breakfast. Breakfast here is inenvitably stale white rolls, sometimes jam if you're lucky. We had museli and pancakes and fresh juice and fruit salad and real yogurt and perculated coffee. If you've been here, you'll understand how special this is. Joy.
warming up with a tiger
View from the hostel compost toilet - it's in a greenhouse... fortunately without neighbours
Started off early the next day, following the rather crazy directions ("after the trail starts decending, listen for dogs barking. Walk across the field towards the sound, and through the eroded canyon")... which somehow were spot on. My favorite part was hanging with the kids when they got out of school around noon. Since schools are so distributed, many guys walk more than an hour each way to school, up rediculously steep hills. We'd walk together for a while, "chatting" in our horrible spanish. Well, actually we would huff and puff up the verticals, and they for some reason would run ten yards forward, then back to us with another excited "good afternoon", possibly encouraging us on?
Some photos of our walks,
neat erosion tunnels
Some of the kids we befriended. These guys were great.
Second day was back near the road so we didn't get to interact with the people as well, which is probably good as we went from 2600 to 3800m at the crater rim, and were breathing hard. We were happy to finally see the crater!
One of many uphills
Yup, more up. in deep sand. a long ways. Exhausted happy.
Finally at the top
Kids walking home along the crater
Looking over the posts, I'm sensing a theme here.
1. We like animals
2. We are always wearing the same clothes
3. We like to eat
So on the same note... have I mentioned we love the fruit? Available everywhere, and picked when it's ripe. Delicious. Here I am picking out some stawbs in Cuenca.
1 comment:
This is so great! I finally (it took me 2 days) get to read & see where you have been & what you have been up to...! Awesome pic.s. Thanks for sharing your blog. Hope you continue to have a great time! You both are so fortunate (& brave) to do this. :-)
Lots of love to you both,
Roo
XOXO
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