I keep running into people going to Cape Town, and decided the standard 'must do's' in the guide books just set you up to be annoyed and harassed, so here's my suggested itineraries.
Advice:
1. When in cape town, spend one day in the core/camps bay/llundudno etc. Yes, it's beautiful. No, it's all european and not the real Cape Town. Great for a holiday, but c'mon you came to Africa!
2. Avoid greenmarket square. It's the most intense market ever, and prices are rediculous, and you'll be so harassed you can't enjoy anything. Greenpoint stadium in SeaPoint has a great market and flea market on Sunday mornings with the same stuff, less intense, or there are small local markets everywhere. Finally, the huge out of Africa at waterfront is usually the least expensive, and has a solid selection.
Some suggested day itineraries.
First two cover the "usual". I'd actually throw these into one since I hate the waterfront and downtown during tourist season... but that's me. Check out Lions neck + Robben island. Done.
DAY 1. Waterfront and Robbin Island. This was a prison when I lived in SA. Crazy. Go, and don't forget this history while you're in SA. Waterfront is touristy so I'd limit it to a day, but if you go on a weekend there are some neat free performances.
DAY 2. City bowl, camps bay. Cape town is about being outside in the stunning scenery, so I wouldn't spend a ton of time wandering streets, but the beaches and mountain are worth it.
Llandudno is a lovely quiet beach with cool rocks. Freezing water, but quiet. Also worth checking out camps bay (another 5-10 minute drive down from the neck) and enjoy the beach. Start walking right when facing the water, and you'll find a super pub where you can have a drink on the water - popular for sundowners, especially on Sunday nights "church". If you were to keep walking (now it's getting far) you'll hit the four Clifton beaches - where you go to see and be seen in Cape Town, if you're into that.
When looking at table mountain, there's a small koppie on the right side
that is called lions head. Easy parking. Hike up the hill, and you'll
see the lions head hike trail starting a few 100m from there. It's
about 40 minute hike, and the view from the top is SPECTACULAR - full
360', perfect for sunsets. There are some ladders at the top, so wear good shoes and take
water (who am I kidding, we do it in flip flops for sundowners all the
time).
From the top of Lions Head, here are the photos from just turning in a circle and taking pictures
Robben Island in the distance
DAY 3. Winelands
Do a wine trip, suggest renting a car (tours will only take you to the big US-style... SA's wines are special when you visit a vineyard that's been in the same family for 300 years). Most non-tour-route wineries offer free samples. Suggest you bring a book and buy a cheese or olive plate to enjoy them with, and just spend an hour or two under a massive oak tree enjoying the quiet and beauty. Eating a fresh picnic under an ancient oak, sipping your wine, is just part of the experience here
Stellenbosch is the home, though it's lovely drive through Franshoek and Paarl. Franshoek is a fabulous smaller, upscale town to stay in with great food.
In general, suggest checking in at the information kiosk in Paarl, Stellenbosch and just heading out - stopping by the wineries that look pretty to you.
I love the winelands (and nearby fruit areas), and really recommend a night away e.g. in Tulbagh or Franshoek. Try to catch one of the passes like Bains Kloof - it's slower but just so spectacular. You just can't go wrong spending a few days in the dorpies around Tulpagh, Ceres, Velliersdorp and Franshoek, ideally on a farm/vineyard stay.
If in a rush or if you're only getting a rental car for one day, here's a packed-in day:
Head via Paarl or Durbanville to Tulbagh, have breakfast at one of the lovely cafes on Kerk street (one street left of the main drag... walk down it for lovely cape dutch architecture), check out 2-3 of the wineries around there (get a map at the info booth), Then drive through ancient valleys you'll only see in Africa to Ceres (where the fruit juices are made) to pick cherries or strawberries, ride back via. Bains Kloof Pass (where all car commercials should be made). Wind + drink your way through Paarl and Franshoek for late lunch or early dinner, finishing off in Stellenbosch at Moyo around 8pm for the african dancing. Okay, it's a bit crazy to pack all that in a day, but hey if I only had two days in Cape Town, this would be one of them.
Somehow, if you have time and energy (not drinking too much?), the natural rock pools at the camping group on Bains Kloof pass are amongst the best in the cape... it's the only camping ground on the road. Make your way quickly through the lower, busy pools and follow the water up to the cliffs and smaller pools. Heaven. NOTE: it can be busy in the high season... if you're squeezing all the wine areas into a single day, skip it.
DAY 4. Kalk baai, James Bay, Muizenberg, caves/hiking. Catch the train and get off at Kalk Baai, a small suburb on the water just before James Bay. Cute houses, real people live here. Enjoy walking past the mixed beaches and taking a dunk, and check out the brightly coloured changing houses (which look better in photos than real life... so snap a few shots and move on). Lots of antiques to check out, especially one street back from the main drag you'll find potterers etc at 1/5 of the price of greenmarket square. Start heading up the hill. *** Okay, more to come, tired. Will continue later ***Okay... later lazy edit ... just google boomslang cave. Follow their directions. Bring a torch and a snack to enjoy in the unexpected forest on the way up... special.
http://www.traveldudes.org/travel-tips/explore-boomslang-cave-just-outside-kalk-bay-cape-town/13100
Even if you don't hike through the cave, which actually cuts through the mountain bringing you to the other side, it's a nice afternoon out.
Muizenberg is also a decent spot to take surf lessons, or rent a board. Warmer than Camps bay, it's fun to see all the local peeps heading for a surf after work or on the weekend.
DAY 5. Climb table Mountain
You can head up the busy, exposed face, but it's much nicer to head up the shaded backside. I went to school just near here.
Head to Kirstenbosch botanical gardens (paid... worth doing if they have a concert on that day so you can have dinner in the park listening to music). Enjoy the gardens for a while, then hike up the mountain. Coming up this side (vs. the exposed city face) is great as its shaded and cool the whole way up; as soon as you hit the top you find reservoirs to take a dip and the views are stunning. From there either hike to the other side to look over Camps Bay then Cape Town - and if you want, catch the cable car down), or if you parked at Kirstenbosch then hike around for a bit on top and come back down the ladders. There are two ways up and down from Kirstenbosch so you don't have to retrace your steps... ask at the gate for a map and which route is easier on the way up/down . Lovely day hike.
Just at the top - welcome shade under melkbos
Top of the mountain - don't the reservoirs look inviting?
View over Camps Bay
Camps Bay again
DAY 7 - Coast
This is a good one to do in two days. Rent a car.
Chapmans Peak Drive (cool road, toll now),
Simonstown (I enjoy the museum, even though its cheesy, but really just for Just Nuisance, the dog)
Boulders penguin beaches.
Somerset west beaches (finally, a non-european beach)
Fishhoek fisheries (takeout at the main roundabout) - quick, cheap local favorite. Grab some and head to the beach to eat.
For Boulders (Penguin) beaches, avoid the touristy official beach, which you pay for and is packed with arrogant americans and germans wearing unfortunate bathers (at least, avoid at Xmas and weekends). Instead, head to the smaller (free) local beach to the left when facing the water. There are also penguins (albeit not as many, but its worth it for the lack for annoyants). Hard to describe how to get there.Follow the tourists to the pay beach, then don't go through the gates, instead head left behind the beach (check for penguin + eggs... you'll see them) and at the corner where everyone sells curios either ask someone, or look for a faded wooden gate on your right; it leads to a small public park with two beaches on the water... free and with penguins, but no tourists know.
Pools. My favorite SA summer outing - we did it almost every weekend - hike to lovely ancient pools to jump and swim in gorgeous fresh water. There are lots, find a local and tag along. OR... Just outside somerset west, head out of the town (on the road curving up the mountain to the left when facing the water). Park in the first pullout after the ?retirement community? (only real development along the water once you get out of the bay). Get there early since they limit entry and pay the ~R10 entrance fee at a kiosk across the street. If you're dodgy you can otherwise get in, but its easer to just pay.
*DO NOT TAKE ANY FOOD, or drink other than water, or sunscreen*. The baboons have come down every single time we go. Usually in the early afternoon. You think now its exciting. That's until you poo your pants when they do. They move insanely quickly. They have to be put down because of stupid tourists like you that panic and throw your food at them. So just don't do it. They aren't (that) scary if you have no food
On the way in
Rocks around the pools, great jumping spots to the deep pools below. This is approximate 10 seconds before 100 baboons came flying over the rock.
DAY 8, 9 - Hermanus
The popular beachside resort, it has great whalewatching in winter, and secluded gorgeous beaches. Avoid just after school finishes in Dec - it's the party destination that week - but otherwise it has fabulous runs/hikes along the water, and is a safe, quaint town. Worth it. Add on to Wine-route?
DAY 10 - Tableview, Northern Suberbs
I'm biased 'cause I live out this way. LOVE the view from TableView, and it's such a mellow stretch of beach. N. Suburbs are so much quieter/afrikaans than the southern subs. If stuck for time, can hit this up on the way to the wineries on the previous day. It's on the way back from Durbanville.
Long stretches of white sand. Yet we love the rock pools the best. Si + the dogs!
My favorite view of Cape Town. Charger mid-flight is just an added bonus. Love this photo.
RANDOM:
Spare lunch in the city bowl? Head up signal hill to the brightly colour cobbled streets (facing the mountain, to the right) that is the Malay quarter of cape town. No idea how to guide you - ask around - but a few house-restaurants serve the BEST bobotie (cape curry, delish!) in cape town here. Great photo ops with the mountain behind you and the brightest painted houses
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